Adjust Your Own Golf Cart Brakes! Who Knew?
(It has come to my attention that many other folks need to adjust their golf cart brakes and this blog comes up on the first Google page for "golf cart brakes". Therefore, in order to promote the general welfare of amateur golf cart brake adjusters throughout the world, I updated this page with pictures and additional, hopefully more useful information. The new stuff is in italics. Also, my legal department told me to tell you to please be advised that I am a retired math teacher, not a mechanic, and you will have to use your own good judgment if you decide to adjust your own golf cart brakes. Be sure to work safely so you don't miss any time on the golf course. And don't sue ME if YOU screw up! Also, see the excellent comment below posted by "krosati" sometime in 2011. It sounds like he knows what he is talking about. Thanks for his very helpful addition.)
The brakes on my golf cart (a 1991 Club Car that was refurbished at some point and that I bought in 2005) had gotten to the point that I was not sure I could stop in less than the length of a well struck pitching wedge. So I googled "adjust golf cart brakes" and came across a site that said if you don't know what you are doing, don't even think about trying to adjust your golf cart brakes. It then went on to describe terrible things that can happen, or that have happened, to amateur brake adjusters. For some reason that I don't understand, I can't link you to that site. (This site says that most modern carts have self-adjusting brakes, but since mine is a '91 model, it does not have s-a brakes. Check out this article and your cart to determine which type you have.)
So I assumed this was all talking directly to me and that I just might as well call the golf cart repair guy to come pick up my cart ($25) and adjust the brakes. Since I got the cart used, I wasn't even sure if the brake pads were any good. I was expecting another $200 for brake pads. This is the price we pay for having our own cart, right?
Well I mentioned this to my traveling friend, Doug. I think I've said before that Doug can build or fix anything. He has built hot rods for years. And even more amazing is that what Doug doesn't know, his brother, Ernie, does know.He said just bring it by (he lives down the street) and he would adjust the brakes. He asked if I heard metal-on-metal sounds when I braked, and I had not heard that. He said I probably didn't need pads if I didn't hear that grinding sound.
So, after he jacked up the rear end of the cart, he removed the wheels. He just pulled off the brake drum which let us look at the brake pads. They were in great condition, still plenty of pad left. After he slipped the drum back in place, he went under the cart and removed (by pulling straight away from the wheel) a rubber boot that covers a 7 mm adjusting screw/stud on the top, back side of the wheel.
He turned this screw so that it moved towards the outside of the cart (or INTO the wheel). This screw pushes outward on some wedge shaped pieces that in turn push the brake pads away from the center of the wheel hub and closer to the drum. He turned the wheel by hand to feel when the pads contacted the drum. When he felt resistance, he turned the screw back just a little so that no resistance is felt. He replaced the rubber boot over the screw and we were finished with one side of the cart.
Here is what it looks like when all is taken apart including the 13/16 deep socket wrench used to remove the wheel.He repeated this on the other rear wheel/brake, lowered the cart off the jack, and I tested the brakes. It was great.
Now the brake pedal does not go all the way to the floor. All is well and I no longer fear for my life when going down hill.
This really was easy. I can do this myself next time. These pictures were taken about a year after the first adjustment. I did it all myself this time. I had to buy a small 2-ton floor jack at Harbor Freight for $19, and I used an adjustable wrench to turn the adjusting screw/stud because I didn't have a socket that fit the stud.
So, what have we learned here? Call Doug and DON'T TRUST THE INTERNET!
The brakes on my golf cart (a 1991 Club Car that was refurbished at some point and that I bought in 2005) had gotten to the point that I was not sure I could stop in less than the length of a well struck pitching wedge. So I googled "adjust golf cart brakes" and came across a site that said if you don't know what you are doing, don't even think about trying to adjust your golf cart brakes. It then went on to describe terrible things that can happen, or that have happened, to amateur brake adjusters. For some reason that I don't understand, I can't link you to that site. (This site says that most modern carts have self-adjusting brakes, but since mine is a '91 model, it does not have s-a brakes. Check out this article and your cart to determine which type you have.)
So I assumed this was all talking directly to me and that I just might as well call the golf cart repair guy to come pick up my cart ($25) and adjust the brakes. Since I got the cart used, I wasn't even sure if the brake pads were any good. I was expecting another $200 for brake pads. This is the price we pay for having our own cart, right?
Well I mentioned this to my traveling friend, Doug. I think I've said before that Doug can build or fix anything. He has built hot rods for years. And even more amazing is that what Doug doesn't know, his brother, Ernie, does know.He said just bring it by (he lives down the street) and he would adjust the brakes. He asked if I heard metal-on-metal sounds when I braked, and I had not heard that. He said I probably didn't need pads if I didn't hear that grinding sound.
So, after he jacked up the rear end of the cart, he removed the wheels. He just pulled off the brake drum which let us look at the brake pads. They were in great condition, still plenty of pad left. After he slipped the drum back in place, he went under the cart and removed (by pulling straight away from the wheel) a rubber boot that covers a 7 mm adjusting screw/stud on the top, back side of the wheel.
He turned this screw so that it moved towards the outside of the cart (or INTO the wheel). This screw pushes outward on some wedge shaped pieces that in turn push the brake pads away from the center of the wheel hub and closer to the drum. He turned the wheel by hand to feel when the pads contacted the drum. When he felt resistance, he turned the screw back just a little so that no resistance is felt. He replaced the rubber boot over the screw and we were finished with one side of the cart.
Here is what it looks like when all is taken apart including the 13/16 deep socket wrench used to remove the wheel.He repeated this on the other rear wheel/brake, lowered the cart off the jack, and I tested the brakes. It was great.
Now the brake pedal does not go all the way to the floor. All is well and I no longer fear for my life when going down hill.
This really was easy. I can do this myself next time. These pictures were taken about a year after the first adjustment. I did it all myself this time. I had to buy a small 2-ton floor jack at Harbor Freight for $19, and I used an adjustable wrench to turn the adjusting screw/stud because I didn't have a socket that fit the stud.
So, what have we learned here? Call Doug and DON'T TRUST THE INTERNET!